I am embarrassed to report that I just couldn't cut it in the ancient and remote Chinese village, regardless what the James River Writers advised. There was just insufficient language exchange to sustain me. So there.

But, while there I had a nice discussion with a really pleasant person, Vice Dean of Foreign Languages, Guangdong University. He was one of the thousands of tourists passing through. We talked about employing me to teach English. So maybe that's what the Universe had in mind sending me there.

So, presently I'm outside the gate at GU in a hotel. He is on vacation for another week, so I wait for his return so we can talk more. There are lots of students walking along the strip mall with lots of food stalls and everything but English books. Enough speak English to meet my need.

It's been a real change of pace being here. Guangzhou is a huge city on the SE coast. I caught a bus from LeKing and Wu Yuan to Shang Tao, overnight train to Guangzhou. There are palm trees here so I guess I'm the same latitude as South Carolina, no map, like living in a well.

At the train station, I saw a sort of travelers aid, a hotels representative. I told her to get me a hotel near the University. She did.

The next morning I went on discovery. The big city syndrome was a far cry from the sweet ancient village. I saw a cafeteria style food stall outside the hotel. Approaching a surly, middle aged woman, I began to point to the food I wanted. She looked at me and waved me away, twice. I don't know where it came from, but without skipping a beat, I got right up in her face and said something like, God damn you bitch, feed me now. She trembled a little and dished it up. I tell you, being and older, beefy white guy with short hair and can make his color go red while articulating can get a lot done.



Being fed, a little edgey, I walked on to the main street intersection, turned left. I was shocked. Probably 20% of the pedestrians were Negro. These guys weren't just street Blacks, they were well fed, self possessed, walked like they lived there, unsmiling. Reminded me of myself, except I smile. I was used to seeing Asians. Finally, I stopped one and asked if he spoke English, he did, very well, from Nigeria.

Remember,I was mugged in Quito, Ecuador by alleged Nigerians. My antennae went up. But he seemed nice enough. He said we should meet later, gave me his phone and email. It contained, brightmorningstar and twofathers. I said I'd call, we could drink a beer. A Christian, he only drank water. Later, I got images of talks about baby Jesus stories and glories, I declined.

Another guy from Ghana stopped me and said Hello, we chatted. Apparently, they're all here on buying missions: clothing, cell phones, etc., stay a month, go home and sell the stuff. I told you China is cultivating Africa, nobody else is, and they are doing it the right way, with trade, like Menzies 1421. Loans and grants don't work in Africa or anywhere else.

In my lobby, a Black lady from Ghana approached me, said she had a restaurant in the hotel, I went for supper. Met another Nigerian who helped me pick an African meal from the menu. It tasted like good beef stew without vegetables, a hunk of steamed bread dough. But I got acid reflux.

The Nigerian went on to tell me he was a prince, his father was trying to get $1.5M out of the country, they only needed an outside man, I told him I wouldn't touch it with a stick, he cooled off, thought I was just another White guy, didn't know I was trained in Richmond. I've heard that many internet scams come from Nigeria. There was a Muslim bakery close by, sold me some bad bread, threw it away.

Looking around, I think I was in some kind of trading center. The streets and buildings were not rectangular. One could easily get lost. I saw what looked like a large circular building, 3 floors, went inside. Maybe 150 stalls selling cosmetics and health gear. I was just amazed at how many products there were for sale. Just miles of stuff in girlie jars. I' swear I saw pubic hair straightener. There were things like clam shell power showers, lamps to melt fat and tighten skin.

You remember 40 years ago when women wore rubber girdles. The big promo here is for whole body sheathing, looks like a torture device, on TV, everywhere. There is no way to pee except completely disrobe. It just indicates so much disposable income.

Anyway, bad vibes in the neighborhood, got the manger to tell a taxi to take me to the University, found this hotel close by. So, now just wait.

It's not over. My VISA card will not work anywhere in this city. Hotels will not accept. Don't know about 5 star. Mine is 3 star, $25. The short story is that I have worried the management here to death and they have been wonderful. Our references are so different. I don't know how you locate anything in the yellow pages. Chinese has no alphabet. Finally, yesterday my manager referred me to her friend in a 5 star who was smart enough to find a Bank of America here in Guangzhou, closed on the weekend. If I paid today's rent, I would not have enough for food. Took 2 hours of pleading yesterday to get them to front me to days rent. I am a kinder landlord. Chinese are tough with money. So, tomorrow, I go to BOA and see if they will give me money. If not, I'll throw myself on the mercy of my embassy. It's terrible to be slightly rich and can't access your money, stranger in a foreign land, broke.

Hiked this AM, feet took me where the way abruptly became a dirt path into a woods up a mountain, about 1/2 mile to a spring. People were coming and going, bringing jugs and carrying water down. They mostly had the look of pilgrims, semi-trances. I think it is a Sunday ritual, like church..

The spirit put into my hands, Thoreau's Walden Pond, Chinese and English. He was 33, same as Jefferson's Declaration and Jesus' Crucifixion. I did my best work at that age, piss and vinegar. It is a good read, though he is a little more cynical than I.

S.